I finally got my wireless RFID Ignition setup bench tested and working, now it is ready to throw into Stella. It took a long time to figure out the wiring with about 60 different configurations with auto relays. Basically it is a RFID wireless system that is wired to a relay that latches open to allow the bike to be started. Once the bike is turned off with the kill switch it must be reengaged with the fob again. The fobs can be like in the video or as a card that goes in your wallet and even implanted into your hand... I'll share how that goes in the coming weeks ;).
 
 
A nice beautiful winter afternoon Stella sets sails for running around the block. She runs flawless. Wow, so much fun!
 
 
Here is Stella in all her glory, all she is missing is her rear fender, rear break light and license plate. Still not a bad view. 

So close...
Exhaust is installed and new brass foot pegs are installed.
And of course as soon as I pull out the camera Che likes to get in on the action! And our new 4Runner in the background, finally ditched the mini van.
 
 
I decided I did not like the lines of the stock pipes I had. They did not flow and the bends were too wide. I decided to make my own pipes. I must admit that this step was not nearly as difficult as I thought. I got away with one cut and weld seam. I then ground down the seam then cut the pipes to length.
So I realized that straight pipes are ridiculously loud so I decided to build some internal baffles while still maintaining the straight pipe design. I did some research and found some that you could buy but they were more for keeping the back pressure up but did not reduce the decibel level all that much.

With more research I found some forums where guys are building their own baffles and glass packing them. This creates the adequate back pressure while having the fiberglass to absorb the noise muffling it a few decibels. I may decide to do some tests of the decibels with and without the baffles to see what the exact difference is.
I installed the brass ends and then needed straps to mount the pipes to my bike. All the straps I found online were between $9-$30 and they were chrome, which this bike will have virtually none. I decided to go to my local hardware store and buy some flat stock brass and make my own. And then before installing them I shot them with 1000 degree rated paint. Of course they will be wrapped but this will protect them from rust and allow the ends that are not rusted to have a black on brass look.
 
 
 
 
Got rims and hubs powder coated and rebuilt.
 
 
So the big wheel project is to have my rims and hubs powder coated satin black and new stainless steel spokes. Also, I wanted to upgrade from a 19" to a 21" front rim. This meant finding a Yamaha dirt bike rim and relacing it to my front hub. The rim I found, the holes for the spokes were too small so I had to drill out each one slightly larger to accommodate the nipples.

I ordered Avon wheels from American Classic Motors out of Pennsylvania who has proven to be the cheapest place to by tires from, and a great staff to work with. I got the MKII Speedmaster for the front and the MKII Safety Mileage for the rear.
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Here is the new 21" wheel w/cutoff wheel cutting away the spokes.
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21" rim without spokes and hub.
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Original 19" front wheel and rim. Hub will be laced to 21" rim.
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Here is the hub laced to the new rim for a test fit. Now to send the rim and hub for powder coat and then to true the rim.
 
 
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New seat & seat height adjuster, electronics faux 'oil tank', mid-controls, wiring, carbs & air cleaners, permanent magnet alternator installed, side case on, triple trees painted fork tube boots, (not pictured - rear brake pedal).
 
 
Here is the wiring diagram that gives me the simplest form of wiring. I adapted this one from others I have seen, there are a few slight modifications I will still make:
  • USB Charging Port will go to a wiring block so that I can run a few items off of a relay like the USB plug, RFID reader/ignition, ans anything else I need.
Feel free to comment on it, pick it apart or tell me needs to change. Click HERE to download it!

Also, here is a list of the electrical parts I used:
  • 1 - 4-6 bay fuse block
  • 1 - 20 amp fuse
  • 3 - 10 amp fuse
  • 1 - 7.5 amp fuse
  • 1 - Ignition switch (I used standard Toggle Switch)
  • 1 - Headlight switch, on-off
  • 1 - High/low switch, on-off-on for hi-off-lo
  • 1 - Brake switch
  • 1 - Kill switch push button (I used standard Toggle Switch)
  • 3' of green, black, & red wire 16 gauge
  • Shrink wrap to match wire color (red & black)
  • Assorted ring terminals
 
 
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The new 'Oil Bag' that will be my electronics box. I have brass end caps that will finish it off perfectly.
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Another angle of the mounted Oil Bag.
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Some simple crimping, soldering, and shrink wrapping in action. I took this picture with my teeth...
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Electronics shelf with RFID Wireless starter and fuse panel mounted. A few switches installed, basic wiring coming together.
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Better view of previous picture, all the leads in place to the switches.