Here is the wiring diagram that gives me the simplest form of wiring. I adapted this one from others I have seen, there are a few slight modifications I will still make:

• USB Charging Port will go to a wiring block so that I can run a few items off of a relay like the USB plug, RFID reader/ignition, ans anything else I need.

Feel free to comment on it, pick it apart or tell me needs to change. Click HERE to download it!

Also, here is a list of the electrical parts I used:

• 1 - 4-6 bay fuse block
• 1 - 20 amp fuse
• 3 - 10 amp fuse
• 1 - 7.5 amp fuse
• 1 - Ignition switch (I used standard Toggle Switch)
• 1 - Headlight switch, on-off
• 1 - High/low switch, on-off-on for hi-off-lo
• 1 - Brake switch
• 1 - Kill switch push button (I used standard Toggle Switch)
• 3' of green, black, & red wire 16 gauge
  
• Shrink wrap to match wire color (red & black)
• Assorted ring terminals

Recent updates since the last post:

• Got my new High Output PMA (Permanent Magnet Alternator) installed.
• Installed new PAMCO Electronic Ignition System.
• High Output Coil with wires and plugs.
• New rectifier wired to PMA unit.
• All electrical wiring is soldered for a longer life.
• Soda blasted the engine.
• Got my seat mounted with tabs and golf cart spring (sprung seat), feels like riding on air!
• Chain Tensioner with old school skate board wheel mounted.
• New front brake line.
• Carbs 90% rebuilt (not pictured).

Here are some pictures updating the progress thus far. New chain, finished off a few little things here and there.

Of course a major theme on this build is brass. I wanted to go with a brass kicker however I have not found any that are made for the Yamaha XS650. So I decided to get one for a Harley and modify it for this bike.

The trick was getting this nice brass pedal to fit to the existing kick starter.

I started off by cutting off the little nub and slid off the existing rubber foot rest. Then had to grind down the bar to be round. It was not the most round bar.

I then drilled a hole in the end of the bar and tapped some threads to match a bolt. Then I cut of the bolt head and threaded in the bolt which will get a tack weld so it is permanently in the lever.

I then got a couple chrome washers and a bronze bushing. Then to make sure there was no movement I got a piece of stainless steel tubing that would fit in the bronze bushing and be a sleeve over the threaded bolt.

I ordered a couple petcocks for my gas tank. Each carburetor will have its own dedicated fuel petcock. I was able to find two beautiful brass petcocks. They are vintage fuel petcocks off either a BSA or Triumph, probably from the 50's-70's era.

My tank came with two different size bungs, a 3/8" and a smaller 1/4" bung which I wished it came with none and I could have installed my own.

So to solve the problem I went to my local Ace Hardware and picked up a couple hex bushings the reduced both the 3/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT bungs to the 1/8" NPT threads on the petcocks.

The picture shows the bushings on the petcocks ready for installation on the tank.

So I decided not to build my own hardtail for several reasons and have one ordered custom to the exact measurements I was wanting. I ordered my tail from Robert at Elswick Cycle. I was quoted 3-4 weeks on the build time and received it 4 weeks and 1 day, not bad. I am more than happy with it and think it turned out perfect.

The weird shape piping that is in place of the engine is an engine stay that I welded up to keep the frame from flexing when I weld the hardtail on so that the engine will fit perfect.

The specs on the hardtail are:

• 2" Stretch over stock, I would have gone stock height or even 1" over but needed room for the battery and electronics
• 4.5" Ride Height, 5.5" is stock, with the 2" lowering kit on the shocks this bike looks perfect and level
• Drop Seat design, that is why the top bar has a bend in it
• Height based off an 18" rear wheel

I apologize for not getting pictures of the progress and only showing the finished product.

Since my bike will have the old school look that means no speedometer**, gas gauge or anything. Basically everything will be stripped except the wiring to run it, start it, and keep it legal; i.e. headlight and break light. We can argue safety later. I rode a GREEN crotch rocket that was never seen. This bike will be heard far before it is seen.

Anyways I digress, a really cool feature is to have a 'visial' gas gauge. The steps was to order a couple NPT threaded bungs that I got from Bung King. Then some brass angles and clear tubing from the local hardware store. The total cost was at $16, much cheaper than a $36 kit.

The next goal was getting the tank mounted. Many guys out there just drill & tap the backbone tube. There were a couple reasons I would not go that route.

1. It loses some of the integrity and strength in the backbone, which is VERY minimal.
2. The main reason: these twins vibrate more than an ant experiences during an elephant stampede. As a result many gas tanks get cracks and leak. 

I felt the only option was the option my dad believed in as he would say, "Nothing should be done half a$$ or mickey mouse!" To over come the strength issues of losing integrity I got some blind bungs, meaning the bungs did not have a whole all the way through. I chose these because that way water could not enter the bung through the threads and get inside the frame. Here are the bungs I used, I used metric threads to match the metric bike. To overcome the sencond concern, I went down to the local hardware store and found some perfect grommets ans some stainless button hex bolts as seen in the pictures.

**Actually I will use an Android phone or iPhone as my speedometer with an app, I will create old school brass holder for the phone and wire in a charging unit so that I can have a waterproof USB charging port on the bike, but it will be hidden. Not having a speedo is legal, safe, and fine. I can gauge my speed based on other vehicles.

Got a new Engine Gasket Kit. Time to rebuild the engine. Debating whether to do it on my own, which I am fully confident that I can do, but not fully confident I will be able to make proper diagnosis in case there are any bad parts. Also got in the Front Wheel Bearing and Seal Kit that drastically improves the handling and sterring of the older bikes.

I also got in this sweet headlight. I am not a fan of the obnoxiously huge lights many guys run, wanted something small. Was hoping this would be metal but it is ABS, some day down the road I will replace it with a full metal headlight cup so that I can leave it bare metal, not a fan of chrome, or else I would have bought and over-priced Darley Havidson. 


This light was ship from Thailand so it had some cool packaging and stamps and packaged with twine. Pretty interesting.

So went down to Bob's Used Motorcycle Parts again and when I got there started losing sight in my left eye. Typical sign of a migraine coming, sure enough it was. Trying to find parts when you can only see about 25% out of one eye is difficult. I am sure I looked a little clumsy out there. I was able to score a near perfect front caliper, as well as a much better conditioned alternator cover and clean operating kicker that I will hopefully mount an old school brass pedal on.

This picture was parts fresh out of the bag. I immediately took the caliper apart and cleaned every part with detail and ordered a kit for it that should be here later this week which will make it as good as new! The caliper has a nice natural aluminum finish that is slightly purplish discoloration, it will look great that way.